Fireplace Manual Mark 123-38C

Confirming the Hearth or Hearth Extension

Most fireplace inserts need 18” of non-combustible material on the floor (hearth) in front of the door opening. In some cases, this hearth (and the existing hearth) must also meet certain R or K insulation values. These values are specified in the owners manual and are required to avoid overheating of the combustible materials underneath the hearth. Note that many stove manuals will show 16” as the hearth extension (in front), while the newest NFPA codes require 18”. The manuals have not yet caught up to the code - so use the 18” whenever possible. Read some of our other articles on hearth clearances and construction for tips on building or buying an extension.

Radon Specs

House is about 1500 SF on lower level, 750SF is "half basement" and the rest is garage with full height access to outside.

Sub-grade material is unknown, built 1979

See blueprints here:



DO NOT PENETRATE ROOF on the South East Side.   The South East Side will used used for Photovoltaic System.

DO NOT use sump pump for suction, not allowed.

Small closet downstairs by bathroom door is directly under small closet by kitchen entry. This is the routing now that the fireplaces are closed up.

Prefer a lump sum to execute, $600 will win this done on Monday to Wednesday of 2-6-12 to 2-8-12
Must be to spec and to code.  There is wiring in attic, provide receptacle for fan.


We are thinking GP 301 FAN mounted in attic, 3" schedule 40 PVC pipe to basement.    I will have an office area in basement, and want GOOD radon mitigation.

Pipe direct to sky, no rain cap.   Be ready to excavate for dry sump if soil /subgrade is not conducive to good drainage and under house air supply.


House is under renovation right now.   Drywall is being completed, could run through dual fireplace chase at this time, it would be very clean.

Radon Report



 http://www.iaqsource.com/product.php?p=radonaway_23006-1&product=174787

Features:
High Suction (max pressure is 2.6" WC) for compacted subslab materials
Quiet Operation
Mounts on duct piope or with integral flange
3" Diameter duct collars
Electrical box for hard wire or plug in (corded plug not included)
ETL Listed - for indoor or outdoor use
5 Year Warranty
Made in the USA

Specifications:
Power Consumption - 55-90 watts
CFM at 0" W.C. - N/A
CFM at 1" W.C. - 92
Weight - 12 lbs
Inlet / Outlet - 3.5" OD for easy coupling to Schedule 40 PVC
Size - 13" H x 12.5" x 11.5"
Normal operating temperature range: -20 - 120 degrees F.
Maximum inlet air temperature: 80 degrees F.
Continuous Duty
Class B Insulation
3000 RPM
Thermally protected 

 EPA Radon Mitigation Standards

Everything you never wanted to know about Radon systems

Good basic design link
http://www.aair.com/DESIGN-BASICS.html

James Harlow Member

Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Louisa County, Virginia Posts: 12

Re: Radon Mitigation Vent Clearances

Hello,
The EPA Radon Mitigation Standards form #402-R-93-078 states the following;
Item# 14.2.8 To prevent re-entrainment of radon, the point of discharge from vents of fan-powered soil depressurization and block wall depressurization systems shall meet all of the following requirements: 1)be above the eave of the roof, (2) be ten feet or more above the ground level, (3) be ten feet or more from any window, door, or other opening into conditioned spaces of the structure that is less than two feet below the exhaust point, and (4) be ten feet or more from any opening into adjacent building. The total required distance (ten feet) from the point of discharge to openings in the structure may be measured either directly between the two points or be the sum of measurements made around intervening obstacles. Whenever possible, the exhaust point should be positioned above the highest eave of the building and as close to the roof ridge line as possible.

Scott Patterson Member

Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Spring Hill (Nashville), TN Posts: 4,426

Re: Radon Mitigation Vent Clearances

Quote:

Originally Posted by CHARLIE VAN FLEET

fan should be on outside of house--10 feet from any openings and should be above the roof line. or at least 10 feet off the ground---google it and go to the EPA site
charlie

Actually the fan can be in the house, just not in or below a livable area. From the EPA site: The exhaust fan must not be located in or below a livable area. For instance, it should be in an unoccupied attic of the house or outside - not in a basement!

__________________
Scott Patterson, ACI
Spring Hill, TN

 The EPA recommends as a minimum, that plastic pipes in mitigation systems should be Schedule 20 PVC, ABS or equivalent piping materials. Schedule 40 piping or its equivalent should be used in garages and in other internal and external locations subject to weathering or physical damage. Most external installations are changed over to downspout piping after the fan as a means of blending the system in with the rest of the house. All of the joints in the plastic pipe need to be sealed using adhesives recommended by manufacturer except where the fan is connected. This typically, is a removable rubber boot with stainless steel clamps. The downspout joints are usually caulked with a urethane sealant.

Fireplace Construction and Vapor Barrier

The Fireplace chase must be treated as being "inside the building" which makes sense since fireplace inserts are not listed as outdoor equipment.

The outer walls must be insulated, AND, a vapor sealing system applied or drafts will get in, and when the fireplace is used the chase will heat up and then will condense onto the outer walls if the vapor barrier and insulation are not effective.

The flue will often be quite cold in winter conditions, as there is nothing preventing cold air from entering the flue.   So of course the wall between the usable interior space and the chase must also be effectively insulated AND vapor barrier applied ALSO.  

If the vapor barrier is not effectively applied on the interior wall, moisture will move through and to the cold flue pipe, condensing and possibly rusting through, creating an inaccessible and non-inspectable fire hazard.


In all cases, the insulation must be positively controlled so that it can never fall down to the fireplace and create a house fire.  Cement board is a little expensive but it can be used to hold insulation in place, keeping in mind though that cement board is fireproof but not a fire barrier, and cement board is also not a vapor barrier.

http://www.fireplacesnow.com/cecinfo.asp

http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=99022

The link BELOW is a GREAT SITE for all types of Building Inspection, this particular link is for fireplace.

http://www.inspectionnews.net/home_inspection/fireplaces-chimneys-solid-fuel-burning-appliances-home-inspection-commercial-inspection/

Sealing the Chase

Sometimes, especially in cold climates, chases constructed inside the dwelling may need special considerations. In extremely tight structures, where air exchange rates are low and interior relative humidity is high, it may be beneficial to insulate, seal and vapor barrier the chase similar to treatment given outside wall construction in such dwellings. This will prevent moisture from penetrating the chase and condensing on the cold chimney during nonuse periods. If this condensation is allowed to occur, subsequent warming periods, especially during fireplace startup, can cause water to drip and leak into the chase space, often weeping through to stain and damage finished surfaces. The vapor barrier should be placed on the room side of the chase, just behind the finished wall sheathing. Some jurisdictions require that outside air be provided into the chase to provide cooling for the chimney.

The exterior of the chase may require a cricket, a peaked secondary roof section constructed on top of, and perpendicular to the primary roof to divert water away from the chase.

Firestopping the Chase

In chases, the firestop/spacers should be installed to correspond with all floor and ceiling levels in the dwelling, both for fire safety and for heat loss prevention. Firestop/spacers in the chase help the main lateral stability of the chimney to ensure that it stays in place. They slow the spread rate of an unfriendly fire from one level to another. They minimize heat loss from the fireplace system.

If the chase is to cut through the eave portion of the dwelling, it must not communicate with open attic spaces. Firestopping between the chase and the attic will prevent fire spread between the attic and the chase, and most importantly, will prevent insulation from the attic from falling or being blown into the chase and around the fireplace/chimney system. Insulation around the fireplace/chimney system would not allow required air clearances, would interfere with the system's heat dissipation, and could lead to a hazardous condition.

Chase Chimney Termination

The top of the chimney, its termination, can bring up questions of both function and design. The method of termination should be approached carefully, since safety issues are involved. The chimney cap must be the listed cap for the factory-build fireplace chimney system.

If a chimney termination is to be installed directly on a field-constructed chase, the chimney must be installed to within a specified clearance to the top of the chase. This allows the designated chimney termination to attach to both the chase flashing and connect to the chimney. The manufacturer's instructions will specify in detail how a chase termination is to be installed. Note here that chase tops must be made of noncombustible materials is within a specified distance from the termination.

The National Fireplace Assoc. prohibits the use of decorative shrouds unless they are listed for use with the specific factory-built chimney system. The addition of an untested cowling can change the aerodynamics and thermal characteristics of the chimney and fireplace system. Such an alteration can counteract the engineering of the cooling achieved by the connection of the air spaces around the firebox to the open air spaces between the chimney walls. The result can be higher than acceptable temperatures and possible ignition of combustibles at either the top of the chimney or elsewhere in the fireplace system Do NOT use decorative shroud unless it is specifically listed for use with the fireplace system.

HVAC Review and Improvement, New Devices

General Contractor has bought home for his own use as well as office space in basement.

Existing LPG gas heat furnace

Looking for HVAC technician to assess existing system
Sketch existing registers and grilles and ductwork as well as is known.

Make a schedule of grille and register sizes and locations, intent is to replace all devices with quality devices with volume dampers that work.

Also, 2 bedrooms on the East side appear to have no return air ductwork, determine a way to route return air to the furnace.

Would like to jump on this ASAP as drywall work is being finished as we speak, so if drywall needs to come down in the garage ceiling for duct access, this is the time to do it.

Drywall Work Scope

Overall Scope

1) Drywall walls at Shop (dettached Garage), insulation by others see pictures, some are full height some are half height with CMU Base.    Tape in preparation for orange peel texture and paint.
http://g2h3.blogspot.com/2012/01/g2g2-detached-garage-current-status.html
2)  Drywall upper half of attached garage, insulation by other see pictures
http://g2h3.blogspot.com/p/garage-attached.html

3) Drywall around steel support beam in garage to make it clean, wood framing already in place.

4) Drywall one closed off door opening at basement hallway
5) Drywall around lower half of home office in basement, included new half height wing wall
6) Drywall above basement fireplace where rock was removed.
7) Drywall above upper floor fireplace where rock was removed.
8) Drywall on bottom sides of steps and landing  in closet on basement level

G2G2 the Detached Garage Current Status

This will all be insulated and drywalled, then textured and painted.   Once it gets warm we will Epoxy or Oil Paint the CMU Block and the Concrete using a textured non slip additive.