Wall Base

Probably wall base will be something simple like this

http://www.lumberliquidators.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=6826

Either Wood or MDF, Painted white

Germantown 30th best city in the United States

http://money.cnn.com/magazines/moneymag/bplive/2007/snapshots/PL5528875.html


http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Germantown+Wi+News&view=detail&id=22310CD83391BF62F067A4502D1424B1B4AEDF40&first=0&FORM=IDFRIR

Chimney flashing cricket

Good ones take some planning, or just fab the whole thing in the field.

http://copper-by-design.com/cc/cf-kits.htm

Medium Orange Peel

Fireplace Manual Mark 123-38C

Confirming the Hearth or Hearth Extension

Most fireplace inserts need 18” of non-combustible material on the floor (hearth) in front of the door opening. In some cases, this hearth (and the existing hearth) must also meet certain R or K insulation values. These values are specified in the owners manual and are required to avoid overheating of the combustible materials underneath the hearth. Note that many stove manuals will show 16” as the hearth extension (in front), while the newest NFPA codes require 18”. The manuals have not yet caught up to the code - so use the 18” whenever possible. Read some of our other articles on hearth clearances and construction for tips on building or buying an extension.

Radon Specs

House is about 1500 SF on lower level, 750SF is "half basement" and the rest is garage with full height access to outside.

Sub-grade material is unknown, built 1979

See blueprints here:



DO NOT PENETRATE ROOF on the South East Side.   The South East Side will used used for Photovoltaic System.

DO NOT use sump pump for suction, not allowed.

Small closet downstairs by bathroom door is directly under small closet by kitchen entry. This is the routing now that the fireplaces are closed up.

Prefer a lump sum to execute, $600 will win this done on Monday to Wednesday of 2-6-12 to 2-8-12
Must be to spec and to code.  There is wiring in attic, provide receptacle for fan.


We are thinking GP 301 FAN mounted in attic, 3" schedule 40 PVC pipe to basement.    I will have an office area in basement, and want GOOD radon mitigation.

Pipe direct to sky, no rain cap.   Be ready to excavate for dry sump if soil /subgrade is not conducive to good drainage and under house air supply.


House is under renovation right now.   Drywall is being completed, could run through dual fireplace chase at this time, it would be very clean.

Radon Report



 http://www.iaqsource.com/product.php?p=radonaway_23006-1&product=174787

Features:
High Suction (max pressure is 2.6" WC) for compacted subslab materials
Quiet Operation
Mounts on duct piope or with integral flange
3" Diameter duct collars
Electrical box for hard wire or plug in (corded plug not included)
ETL Listed - for indoor or outdoor use
5 Year Warranty
Made in the USA

Specifications:
Power Consumption - 55-90 watts
CFM at 0" W.C. - N/A
CFM at 1" W.C. - 92
Weight - 12 lbs
Inlet / Outlet - 3.5" OD for easy coupling to Schedule 40 PVC
Size - 13" H x 12.5" x 11.5"
Normal operating temperature range: -20 - 120 degrees F.
Maximum inlet air temperature: 80 degrees F.
Continuous Duty
Class B Insulation
3000 RPM
Thermally protected 

 EPA Radon Mitigation Standards

Everything you never wanted to know about Radon systems

Good basic design link
http://www.aair.com/DESIGN-BASICS.html

James Harlow Member

Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Louisa County, Virginia Posts: 12

Re: Radon Mitigation Vent Clearances

Hello,
The EPA Radon Mitigation Standards form #402-R-93-078 states the following;
Item# 14.2.8 To prevent re-entrainment of radon, the point of discharge from vents of fan-powered soil depressurization and block wall depressurization systems shall meet all of the following requirements: 1)be above the eave of the roof, (2) be ten feet or more above the ground level, (3) be ten feet or more from any window, door, or other opening into conditioned spaces of the structure that is less than two feet below the exhaust point, and (4) be ten feet or more from any opening into adjacent building. The total required distance (ten feet) from the point of discharge to openings in the structure may be measured either directly between the two points or be the sum of measurements made around intervening obstacles. Whenever possible, the exhaust point should be positioned above the highest eave of the building and as close to the roof ridge line as possible.

Scott Patterson Member

Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Spring Hill (Nashville), TN Posts: 4,426

Re: Radon Mitigation Vent Clearances

Quote:

Originally Posted by CHARLIE VAN FLEET

fan should be on outside of house--10 feet from any openings and should be above the roof line. or at least 10 feet off the ground---google it and go to the EPA site
charlie

Actually the fan can be in the house, just not in or below a livable area. From the EPA site: The exhaust fan must not be located in or below a livable area. For instance, it should be in an unoccupied attic of the house or outside - not in a basement!

__________________
Scott Patterson, ACI
Spring Hill, TN

 The EPA recommends as a minimum, that plastic pipes in mitigation systems should be Schedule 20 PVC, ABS or equivalent piping materials. Schedule 40 piping or its equivalent should be used in garages and in other internal and external locations subject to weathering or physical damage. Most external installations are changed over to downspout piping after the fan as a means of blending the system in with the rest of the house. All of the joints in the plastic pipe need to be sealed using adhesives recommended by manufacturer except where the fan is connected. This typically, is a removable rubber boot with stainless steel clamps. The downspout joints are usually caulked with a urethane sealant.