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antibiotics

  Stolen from Dr Bones

 

Survival Antibiotics

April 8, 2013 0 Comments

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We were at the recent USA Prepares event in Missouri and many of the questions that we fielded during our time there related to the stockpiling of medicines and what each medicine was useful for in times of trouble. There isn’t a 60 second answer to this. Actually, there isn’t a 60 MINUTE answer to this, but anyone that is interested in preserving the health of their loved ones in a collapse will have to learn what antibiotics will work in a particular situation.
It’s important to start off by saying that you will not want to indiscriminately use antibiotics for every minor ailment that comes along. In a collapse, the medic is also a quartermaster of sorts; you will want to wisely dispense that limited and, yes, precious supply of life-saving drugs. Having said this, not having antibiotics in your storage will result, in a grid-down scenario, in the unnecessary deaths of members of your group to infections incurred from activities of daily survival.  An infected cut from chopping wood, for example, may travel to the circulation, causing a life-threatening condition known as “Septicemia” or “sepsis“.  In the History Channel series “After Armageddon“, this was the cause of death of an EMT due to the lack of antibiotics in the community medical storage.
                                                                                                     Infected Cut
Liberal use of antibiotics is a poor strategy for a few reasons:
· Overuse can foster the spread of resistant bacteria. Antibiotics routinely given to turkeys recently caused a resistant strain of Salmonella that put over 100 people in the hospital. 36 million birds were destroyed.
· Potential allergic reactions may occur that could lead to anaphylactic shock (see my recent article on this topic).
· Making a diagnosis may be more difficult if you give antibiotics before you’re sure what medical problem you’re actually dealing with. The antibiotics might temporarily “mask” a symptom, which could cost you valuable time in determining the correct treatment.
You can see that judicious use of antibiotics, under your close supervision, is necessary to fully utilize their benefits. Discourage your group members from using these drugs without first consulting you.  Remember, YOU are in charge of making these (sometime difficult) decisions to parcel out your limited medical supplies.  Use them wisely.
There are many antibiotics, but what antibiotics accessible to the average person would be good additions to your medical storage? Each antibiotic belongs to its own family and is useful for different ailments. Here are some common antibiotics (most available in veterinary form without a prescription) that you will want in your medical arsenal and their veterinary equivalent:

• · Amoxicillin 250mg AND 500mg (FISH-MOX, FISH-MOX FORTE)
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• · Ciprofloxacin 250mg and 500mg(FISH-FLOX, FISH-FLOX FORTE)
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• · Cephalexin 250mg and 500mg (FISH-FLEX, FISH-FLEX FORTE)
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• · Metronidazole 250mg (FISH-ZOLE)
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• · Doxycycline 100mg (BIRD-BIOTIC)
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• · Ampicillin 250mg and 500mg (FISH-CILLIN, FISH-CILLIN FORTE)
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•   Clindamycin 300mg (FISH-CIN)
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• · Sulfamethoxazole 400mg/Trimethoprin 80mg (BIRD-SULFA)

There are various others that you can choose, but the selections above will give you the opportunity to treat many illnesses and have enough variety so that even those with Penicillin allergies with have options. Cephalexin, although not in the same drug family, has been quoted as having a 10% cross-reactivity rate with Penicillin.   There are many others that meet my criteria:
1)They must only be produced in human dosages, although they are “supposed” to be for fish
2)The only ingredient must be the antibiotic itself.  Nothing else that makes your scales more shiny or your fins longer
3)They must appear identical to their human equivalents when removed from the bottle
4)They must be available without a prescription
5)They must be available for purchase in bulk
This article addresses  one of the most common antibiotics available in aquatic equivalents.  Amoxicillin (Aquarium version: FISH-MOX, FISH-MOX FORTE, AQUA-MOX): comes in 250mg and 500mg doses, usually taken 3 times a day. Amoxicillin is the most popular antibiotic prescribed to children, usually in liquid form. More versatile and better absorbed than the older Pencillins, Amoxicillin may be used for the following diseases:

· Anthrax (Prevention or treatment of Cutaneous transmission)

· Chlamydia Infection (sexually transmitted)

· Urinary Tract Infection (bladder/kidney infections)

· Helicobacter pylori Infection (causes peptic ulcer)

· Lyme Disease (transmitted by ticks)

· Otitis Media (middle ear infection)

· Pneumonia (lung infection)

· Sinusitis

· Skin or Soft Tissue Infection (cellulitis, boils)

· Actinomycosis (causes abscesses in humans and livestock)

· Bronchitis

· Tonsillitis/Pharyngitis (Strep throat)

This is a lot of information, but how do you approach determining what dose and frequency would be appropriate for what individual? Let’s take an example: Otitis Media is a common ear infection, especially in children. Amoxicillin is often the “drug of choice” for this condition, although it is not necessary so for some of the above-listed illnesses.

First, you would want to determine that your patient is not allergic to Amoxicillin. The most common form of allergy would appear as a rash, but diarrhea, itchiness, and even respiratory difficulty could also manifest. If your patient is allergic, another antibiotic such as Sulfamethoxazole/Trimethoprin or Cephalexin could be a “second-line” solution.

Once you have identified Amoxicillin as your choice to treat your patient’s ear infection, you will want to determine the dosage. As Otitis Media often occurs in children, you might have to break a tablet in half or open the capsule to separate out a portion that would be appropriate. For Amoxicillin, you would give 20-50mg per kilogram of body weight (20-30mg/kg for infants less than four months old). This would be useful if you have to give the drug to a toddler less than 30 pounds. A common child’s dosage would be 250mg and a common maximum dosage for adults would be 500 mg. Take this orally 3 times a day for 10 to 14 days (twice a day for infants). Luckily, these dosages are exactly how the commercially-made medications come.

If your child is too small to swallow a pill whole, you could make a mixture with water (called a “suspension”). To make a liquid, crush a tablet or empty a capsule into a small glass of water and drink it; then, fill the glass again and drink that (particles may adhere to the walls of the glass). You can add some flavoring to make it more palatable. Do not chew or make a liquid out of time-released capsules of any medication, you will wind up losing some of the gradual release effect and perhaps get too much into your system at once. These medications should be plainly marked “Time-Released”.

Anytime you, as medic, place a person on a new medication or supplement, they should be carefully watched for signs of allergy. If they develop a rash, itching, diarrhea, or other untoward symptoms, you should discontinue your treatment and look for other options.

You will be probably see improvement within 3 days, but don’t be tempted to stop the antibiotic therapy until you’re done with the entire 10-14 days. Sometimes, you’ll kill most of the bacteria but some colonies may persist and multiply if you prematurely end the treatment. In a collapse, however, you might be down to your last few pills and have to make some tough decisions.

For official recommendations regarding the use of Amoxicillin to treat the other illnesses listed, consider investing in a book called the Physician’s Desk Reference. It will have all this information (and more) on just about any medication manufactured today. Listed are indications, dosages, side effects, risks, and even how the drug works in the body. Online sources such as drugs.com or rxlist.com are also useful, but you are going to want a hard copy for your library. You never know when we might not have a functioning internet.

In my next article, I will be reviewing some of the other antibiotics that I listed above…
Dr. Bones

Some Vitamin Information

 Vitamins are important now, for "stacking health", but in the future under certain sceanrios, could become even more essential.    I am not talking about a never ending Mad Max scenario, but a 2 year dysfunctional society scenario, to allow you to be strong and healthy through the tough times.

 I don't have the "answer" on this yet.    It is good to store some vitamins, but some may also go bad.   I have experimented with a vacuum seal method, but that test is only on 3 months, and working fine so far.    Its a bit pricey, every vacuum pack bag is going to be 10cent to 30 cents.

Another commenter stated that Iron will not just go bad with time, but will become poison.   This issue needs to be run to ground, since multi-vitamins (the most important for trace elements not found in common foods) will all have iron.

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Table: RDAs and ULs for Vitamins and Minerals

The Institute of Medicine has determined upper limits for 24 nutrients. Here is a chart comparing the RDA and UL for all of them.
This table only applies to adults age 19 or older. It also does not apply to women who are pregnant or breastfeeding, because they have different nutritional requirements. Anyone who is under 19, pregnant, or breastfeeding should check with a doctor before using supplements.

Vitamin or Mineral	Recommended Dietary Allowance (RDA) or Adequate Intake (AI) Nutrients with AIs are marked with an (*)	Upper Tolerable Limit (UL) The highest amount you can take without risk
Boron	Not determined.	20 mg/day
Calcium	Age 1-3: 700 mg/day Age 4-8: 1,000 mg/day Age 9-18: 1,300 mg/day Age 19-50: 1,000 mg/day Women age 51+: 1,200 mg/day Men age 71+: 1,200 mg/day	Age19-50: 2,500 mg/day  Age 51 and up:2,000 mg/day
Chloride	Age 19-50: 2,300 mg/day Age 50-70: 2,000 mg/day Age 70 and older: 1,800 mg/day	3,600 mg/day
Choline (Vitamin B complex)	Age 70 and older: 1,800 mg/day Women: 425 mg/day *	3,500 mg/day
Copper	900 micrograms/day	10,000 micrograms/day
Fluoride	Men: 4 mg/day * Women: 3 mg/day *	10 mg/day
Folic Acid (Folate)	400 micrograms/day	1,000 micrograms/day This applies only to synthetic folic acid in supplements or fortified foods. There is no upper limit for folic acid from natural sources.
Iodine	150 micrograms/day	1,100 micrograms/day
Iron	Men: 8 mg/day Women age 19-50: 18 mg/day Women age 51 and up: 8 mg/day	45 mg/day
Magnesium	Men age 19-30: 400 mg/day Men age 31 and up: 420 mg/day Women age 19-30: 310 mg/day Women age 31 and up: 320 mg/day	350 mg/day This applies only to magnesium in supplements or fortified foods. There is no upper limit for magnesium in food and water.
Manganese	Men: 2.3 mg/day * Women: 1.8 mg/day*	11 mg/day
Molybdenum	45 micrograms/day	2,000 micrograms/day
Nickel	Not determined	1.0 mg/day
Phosphorus	700 mg/day	Up to age 70: 4,000 mg/day Over age 70: 3,000 mg/day
Selenium	55 micrograms/day	400 micrograms/day
Sodium	Age 19-50: 1,500 mg/day Age 51-70: 1,300 mg/day Age 71 and up: 1,200 mg/day	2,300 mg/day
Vanadium	Not determined	1.8 mg/day
Vitamin A	Men: 3,000 IU/day Women: 2,310 IU/day	10,000 IU/day
Vitamin B3 (Niacin)	Men: 16 mg/day Women: 14 mg/day	35 mg/day This applies only to niacin in supplements or fortified foods. There is no upper limit for niacin in natural sources.
Vitamin B6	Men age 19-50: 1.3 mg/day  Men age 51 up:1.7 mg/day  Women age 19-50: 1.3 mg/day  Women age 51 up: 1.5 mg/day	100 mg/day
Vitamin C	Men: 90 mg/day Women: 75 mg/day	2,000 mg/day
Vitamin D (Calciferol)	Age 1-70: 15 micrograms/day (600 IU, or international units) * Age 70 and older: 20 micrograms/day (800 IU) *	100 micrograms/day (4,000 IU)
Vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol)	22.4 IU/day	1,500 IU/day This applies only to vitamin E in supplements or fortified foods. There is no upper limit for vitamin E from natural sources.
Zinc	Men: 11 mg/day Women: 8 mg/day	40 mg/day

This is from another article, archiving here.

http://rethinksurvival.com/posts/why-vitamin-and-mineral-supplements-are-important-to-long-term-food-storage/
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Why Vitamin and Mineral Supplements Are Important to Long Term Food Storage

Many people, me included, recommend vitamin supplements in your long term preps. Then, as I often do, I got to wondering how important they really were and if they’re possibly not needed at all. So, I figured the easiest way to decide this is to compare the numbers. Therefore, I looked for an easy to reference chart that listed the major vitamins and minerals as well as the Recommended Daily Allowance (RDA). According to the chart, the following major vitamins and minerals are needed (in alphabetical order, and ignoring dosages for now): boron, calcium, chloride, chlorine, copper, fluoride, folic acid (folate), iodine, iron, magnesium, manganese, molybdenum, nickel, phosphorus, selenium, sodium, vanadium, vitamin A, vitamin B3 (niacin), vitamin B6, vitamin C, vitamin D, vitamin E, and zinc.
Rather than making my life remarkable difficult, I figured I would focus on the major long term food storage foods that can be purcahsed at–and are recommended by–the LDS Home Storage Center (you can view the PDF order form here). According to the order form, the following long term food storage foods are to be included in your pantry: beans (black, pinto, white), white rice, sugar, wheat (white and red), dry milk, oats (regular and rolled), dried onions, potato flakes, spaghetti, macaroni, apple slices, carrots, refried beans, cocoa mix, white flour, and fruit drink mix.
Obviously, there are plenty of other supplementary foods that can and should be included in your long term preps that will dramatically affect your vitamin and mineral intake but, again, we’re focusing on the aforementioned long term storage foods to keep things simpler. I’ve taken the liberty of listing the major vitamin and mineral contents for each long term food below as noted on the accompanying nutritional label. I should also point out that I’m ignoring a few other important aspects of your diet, such as fats, fiber, proteins, and even sugar and sodium:

• black beans – calcium 6%, iron 15%
• pinto beans – vitamin C 4%, calcium 6%, iron 15%
• white beans – calcium 8%, iron 25%
• white rice – iron 10%, thiamin 15%, niacin 10%, folate 25%
• white sugar – NONE
• white wheat – calcium 2%, iron 15%
• red wheat – iron 8%
• dry milk – vitamin A 15%, vitamin C 4%, calcium 35%, vitamin D 40%
• oats – iron 6%
• dry onions – vitamin C 4%
• potato flakes – vitamin C 6%
• spaghetti – iron 15%, thiamin 30%, riboflavin 20%, niacin 15%, folate 25%
• macaroni – iron 15%, thiamin 30%, riboflavin 20%, niacin 15%, folate 25%
• apple slices – NONE
• carrots – vitamin A 610%, vitamin C 15%, calcium 6%, iron 6%
• refried beans – vitamin C 4%, calcium 4%, iron 15%
• cocoa mix – calcium 15%, iron 4%
• white flour – iron 8%, thiamin 20%, riboflavin 10%, niacin 10%, folate 15%
• fruit drink mix – vitamin A 10%, vitamin C 100%, calcium 10%, vitamin D 10%, vitamin E 10%, vitamin D 10%, vitamin E 10%, thiamin 10%, riboflavin 10%, niacin 10%, vitamin B6 10%, folate 10%, vitamin B12 10%, biotin 10%, pantothenic acid 10%

I was quite surprised that the fruit drink mix came in as perhaps the most well-rounded long term storage product in the above list. I’m also surprised that the apple slices don’t seem to include and vitamins and that the vitamin A content in carrots is 610%. I should also mention that I would imagine the aforementioned foods include additional vitamins and minerals not listed but are not in sufficient quantity to list on the label.
Now, here’s where we stand for each vitamin and mineral. Note that any item listed below with an asterik (*) was not originally listed in the aforementioned RDA chart but on the long term food storage label instead:

• boron – NONE
• calcium – black beans, pinto beans, white beans, white wheat, dry milk, carrots, refried beans, cocoa mix, fruit drink mix
• chloride – NONE
• chlorine – NONE
• copper – NONE
• fluoride – NONE
• folic acid (folate) – white rice, spaghetti, macaroni, white flour, fruit drink mix
• iodine – NONE
• iron – black beans, pinto beans, white beans, white rice, white wheat, red wheat, oats, spaghetti, macaroni, carrots, refried beans, cocoa mix, white flour
• magnesium – NONE
• manganese – NONE
• molybdenum – NONE
• nickel – NONE
• phosphorus – NONE
• selenium – NONE
• sodium – NONE
• vanadium – NONE
• vitamin A – dry milk, carrots, fruit drink mix
• *vitamin B1 (thiamin) – white rice, spaghetti, macaroni, white flour, fruit drink mix
• *vitamin B2 (riboflavin) – spaghetti, macaroni, white flour, fruit drink mix
• vitamin B3 (niacin) – white rice, spaghetti, macaroni, white flour, fruit drink mix
• *vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) – fruit drink mix
• vitamin B6 – fruit drink mix
• *vitamin B7 or H (biotin) – fruit drink mix
• *vitamin B12 - fruit drink mix
• vitamin C – pinto beans, white rice, dry onions, potato flakes, carrots, refried beans, fruit drink mix
• vitamin D – dry milk, fruit drink mix
• vitamin E – fruit drink mix
• zinc – NONE

Obviously, there are quite a few needs shown above that don’t have any associated long term food storage food, the vast majority of which are minerals… that’s not good! Moreover, there are also vitamins that only have one or two associated long term foods, which doesn’t lend for much variety. On the other hand, there are a few very specific needs–folate, iron, a few B vitamins, and vitamin C–that seem fairly well covered.
So, where do we stand?
Like I mentioned previously, I’m sure you’ll be adding a variety of additional store-bought canned goods and other foods to supplement your long term foods. Perhaps you even have a variety of canned meats, dehydrated vegetables, and some eggs stored, all of which are HIGHLY recommended for other reasons besides vitamins and mineral content, including protein, fats, etc. In fact, it’s specifically foods like meats, dairy, vegetables, and fruits that contain many of the missing minerals.
All that said, looking from just a vitamin and mineral standpoint and focusing on long term foods storage foods only, the data looks fairly clear: include a vitamin supplement in your long term preps. Or, at the very least, a mineral supplement and maybe a vitamin B complex.

John Deere GX 345

 http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/grd/3439230502.html


Yeah, they were well OVER $7,000 when new. I think over $8,000 would actually be more accurate.
They are absolutely GREAT Lawn & Garden Tractors.
Even the older John Deere 345 models were/are great machines. (No GX prefix.)
With the older 345's (built during the 1990's), just be sure that you have proof that the camshaft has been replaced if the tractor has under 1,000 hours on the meter. Otherwise it's a gamble. Many of the older Kawasaki liquid-cooled V-twins had a tendency to shear the rivets that held the phenolic (plastic) gear onto the steel camshaft on many of those powerplants from 300 to 1000 hours. If the machine you are looking at has over 1,000 hours, then it's a pretty safe bet that you won't have any camshaft or motor problems.
The replacement camshafts (all steel) permantly fixed that problem, and then the tractors were known to run and perform great for several thousand hours after that.
Worst case scenario... $1,200 for a cam job. That includes a new water pump and professionally done. I bought all the parts and fixed my myself in one day for under $400.
Anyhow... on the used market, a good 345 or GX345 is worth between $1,500 and $5,000 depending upon age, condition, wear, & options/attachments. Sometimes older machines are worth more. Overall condition really does make a huge difference in what any LGT is worth.
I have an "older" 1997 JD 345 with a 54" deck and super low hours (under 400 hours) and I wouldn't dream of selling it for less than $3,500.
Ironically, I have a 1991 JD 322 with a 50" deck also, and it is easily worth as much or more than my 345. Quality holds value.
My grandparents used to have a 1995 JD 325 (17Hp). Also a great LGT. Only replaced it because somebody STOLE it! Yeah, no kidding. So, now they have a JD GX 335 (20Hp), which they love even more. Both of those are slightly lesser machines than the liquid-cooled 345 & GX 345, although they are built with the exact same chassis, bodies, and trannys.
Good luck and god bless!

Willow Bark Aspirin

http://schemabyte.com/getting-natural-aspirin-from-the-willow-tree/

Using the bark of the willow tree, you can get “natural aspirin” – the usual reference to salicin. Salicin isn’t aspirin, but salicin is similar in chemical structure to aspirin (which is synthetic) and has many of the same advantages. Willow bark also has other advantageous compounds that act in concert with salicin, making it very effective competition for aspirin.

By Willow (Own work) [GFDL, CC-BY-SA-3.0 or CC-BY-2.5], via Wikimedia Commons

Important Disclaimer: As with all medical-related information on this site, this is for informational purposes only – please be aware I am not a physician or even medically trained. Use of this information is at your own risk. This information is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. And so on and so forth. Man, I wish people could just take responsibility for themselves so I wouldn’t have to write and you wouldn’t have to read stuff like that.
Anyway, white willow bark doesn’t bring pain relief as quickly as aspirin, but it lasts longer. In addition, it irritates the stomach lining less than aspirin, so if you have a sensitive stomach this might be an alternative you want to start regularly using today. Historically, willow bark has been used for fever, lower back pain, osteoarthritis, headache, and inflammation.

The Willow Tree

There are many different plants in the willow family, but not all of them have enough salicin to do the job. According to the University of Maryland, the commercially available bark in the U.S. typically has a combination of white, purple, and crack willows. However, the eHow article specifically only references white willow bark and wholehealthmd.com also notes that white willow bark is primarily used. So, given the choice, stick with the white willow.
The bark of the white / european willow (salix alba), per Wikipedia, has also been used for tanning and charcoal from the wood used to be important in the manufacturer of gunpowder. It’ll grow almost anywhere in the United States.
Gardenguides.com has an excellent step-by-step process for the planting of white willow.

Preparing Willow Bark

You can grind willow bark down with a coffee-grinder or similar, as you’d expect. However, you need to get just the bark itself, excluding the woody interiors included in the extraction methods below, to do this. You want to harvest the bark when it’s new growth (during the spring) as possible, as that’s when the salicin concentration is strongest.

1. Cut only smaller branches, to help preserve the tree.
2. Snip off side branches, then using a paring knife to peel the bark in strips – you want to include the green inner bark.

Here’s an excerpt from ryandrum.com’s excellent wildcrafting article:

Willow bark is harvested April-July when the bark slips easily off the inner wood. This occurs because the bark must first grow to accommodate the impending centrifugal diameter growth of the tree, or it would burst, which in fact does occur to trees sometimes. Young willow sprouts 2-8 years old with only a very thin layer of corky outer bark and nice green photosynthetic cells close to the surface, 3/4-3″ in diameter are cut with a hand saw from a coppiced stump, pollarded trunk or fallen tree, trimmed of smallwood and quickly stripped with the aid of a smail stripping knife. The stripped bark is quickly and lightly stuffed into clean dry 80# mesh feed bags. DO NOT STRIP BARK FROM WOOD STiLL ATTACHED TO THE TREE; CUT OFF ALL WOOD TO BE STRIPPED BEFORE STRIPPING.
Harvest is best on a cool gray cloudy day to reduce drying of bark to wood or in bags while transporting to cutting and drying area. Willow bark peeled strips are best kept in widths of 1 inch or less as wider strips tend to curl into cylinders. The inner surfaces of curled strips may mold before totally drying. The strips are hand cut with scissors into 2-4″ pieces, dried loosely on racks at 60-70oF and stored in airtight opaque containers when dry. There is some evidence that higher drying temperatures degrade some active constituents in willow bark.

Tomscaroliniantrees.blogspot.com also has a great article on this approach:

1. Get the fresh twigs – offshoots – that are still flexible and green.
2. Use a vegetable peeler to strip off the bark.
3. Chop it up finely, but not to powder level.

eHow has an article on making a salicin extract that includes whole small branches. That article notes that you should store it in a dark bottle and it’ll last a week in the fridge:

1. Gather the fresh branches right off the tree.
2. Wash the branches thoroughly.
3. Cut them into small sections.
4. Crush the stems to expose the inner bark.
5. For every cup of bark chunks, use half of a cup of water – boil the water without the chunks.
6. Take the boiling water off the heat and add the bark chunks.
7. Cover and let sit for a couple of hours.
8. Strain to just get the liquid.

If you’re feeling celebratory – or want to be feeling celebratory when the time comes to dull some pain – the eHow article also notes you can preserve the salicin without refrigeration and for up to a year by adding vodka:

1. After step 4 from the previous list, tightly pack the willow chunks in a canning jar and just cover them with vodka.
2. Store in the dark for three weeks.
3. Strain to just get the liquid, again storing it in a dark bottle but this time out of the fridge.

I have dosage information in the next section regarding ground bark but it doesn’t really matter, because you can’t tell the strength of it and it takes a while (20 minutes plus) to start working. So sip slowly, either the extracts above or the powder-tea preparation below, and listen to your body. Just take the edge off. Here’s a ground willow bark recipe on grouprecipes.com if you want get fancy taking the edge off.
Interestingly, essortment.com also notes that willow leaves and inner bark are bad-tasting emergency food.

The Uses of Willow Bark

There’s been scientific studies showing willow bark to be effective for lower back pain and osteoarthritis. I’m not aware of scientific studies sufficient to establish willow bark use for the following, but there’s anecdotal evidence that willow bark also helps:

1. Fever
2. Headache
3. Inflammation (so used by the ancient Egyptians)
4. Back & Neck Pain
5. Menstrual Pain
6. Flu

Here’s the dosage information for willow tree bark:

1. The University of Maryland article says boil 1-2 teaspoons of dried bark in 8 ounces of water, let it simmer for 15 minutes, and then let it steep for a half hour. Drink three to four cups of the result daily.
2. That’s in agreement with essortment.com, which says 2 teaspoons of dried bark per cup of water, bring to a boil, and simmer for 10 minutes. Again three cups per day.
3. The same general ratios are also recommended in tomscaroliniantrees.blogspot.com’s article on willow bark tea.
4. Wholehealthmd.com, on the other hand, says you’d have to drink several quarts of such a preparation to get a therapeutic dose, though, so don’t eat a full dinner first.
5. Don’t be hasty though; remember it takes longer than aspirin to work and you certainly don’t want to overdo raw bark tea. Overdose symptoms include nausea and ringing in the ears. WebMD notes that Beethoven died from kidney damage related to a salicin overdoes – it’s no joke.

Some warnings:

1. The University of Maryland article says that children under the age of 16 should not be given willow bark because of the danger of Reye’s syndrome.
2. The same article says that people who are allergic to aspirin should not take willow tree bark and that it could be a bad idea for those with diabetes, stomach ulcers, or asthma. eHow notes that salicin can be absorbed through the skin, so allergic people shouldn’t even handle willow tree bark.
3. The altmedicine.about.com article further notes that willow bark should not be used by people with peptic ulcer disease, kidney disease, hyperuricemia, or gout.
4. Willow tree bark is also not a go for pregnant women.
5. WebMD notes that willow bark may slow blood clotting and should be stopped at least two weeks prior to scheduled surgery.
6. Salicin has similar drug interactions as aspirin – check out the University of Maryland article and of course WebMD for a list of things you shouldn’t take along with willow bark. Altmedicine.about.com also notes you should not take willow bark with ginkgo, vitamin E, or garlic.
7. Like aspirin, salicin is poisonous to cats. You can help your dog out with white willow bark, though, per theherbgardener.blogspot.com.
8. Mountainroseherbs.com notes that willow tree bark will lessen sexual desire but not performance.

References & Further Reading

1. Willow bark – University of Maryland
2. How to Make Aspirin – eHow
3. Willow Bark Removal – eHow
4. white willow bark – wholehealthmd.com
5. White Willow Bark – What Should I Know About It? – altmedicine.about.com
6. Natural Pain Relief From White Willow Bark – theherbgardener.blogspot.com
7. White Willow Bark organic – mountainroseherbs.com
8. Willow Bark – WebMD
9. The Willow Plant – essortment.com
10. Tom’s Trees: Willow Bark Tea – tomscaroliniantrees.blogspot.com
11. Salix alba – wikipedia
12. How to Grow White Willow – gardenguides.com

 

Prepare Group

The Ideal Composition of a Survival Group Posted on December 16, 2012 by suburbanprep A survival group is ideally composed of people with different traits and skills. The traits and skills should be complementary. As the same time, the values and beliefs should be similar, so that the goals are aligned and there is harmony in the group. This article talks about the ideal mixed of a survival group. Ideally, a survival group should be a large family group where all are related by blood or marriage. As a large family group, there is never giving up on each other. A family travels through live together, regardless of change of events. But this is not always possible. In my family, my siblings have no interest in being survival preppers. Nor do they have the discipline and skills to make it work. I love my siblings, and I’ll help them in a time of need. But they can’t and will not be part of my survival group. A survival group, at the very minimum, should be composed of 6 able-bodied adults, plus their children, plus perhaps their retired parents. Ideally, I’d like to see a survival group composed of 8 to 12 able-bodied adults. 12 able-bodied adults represents 6 possible family group. 6 families is too much to put under one roof. A survival group can exist in multiple houses, if the houses are within a 5 minute walk. The balance in the number of able-bodied adults is the work load versus food production. You need enough working adults to provide security, tend to the garden, earn income, care for children and bed ridden adults, and managed the household. But having more members in your group than can be feed and maintain sanitary requirements puts the entire group at risk. Also very important in a survival group is obtain the right mix of complimentary skills. The following are the different skill set areas that should be considered with building your survival group. Leadership – Even in a family group, there must be leaders. Leaders set the standards and provide a mechansim for making hard decisions. During a time of crisis, there is often not enough time for management-by-committee. A leader need not be dictatorial. But rather can lead through example and knowledge. And there can be more than one leader. Each group should attempt to designate a leadership structure and a decision-making path. Medical Skills – The most idea situation would be for one of the survival group members to be a physician. A nurse practitioners is next best. Then having a registered nurse is next best. As minimum, need someone with abilities to the level of an EMS person plus mid-wife skills. The medical role in your group will need to handle or stabilize trauma, deep cuts, broken bones, chronic illnesses that might exist in your group, infections, infectious waterborne diseases, food poisoning, and the annual flu/cold. The medical role will manage the medical supplies inventory and establish standard for cleanliness and sanitation. Food Production – Each group should have one or more people with successful experience with large-scale gardening or farming. Animal raising skills are very desirable skills. Food Preservation – Preserving your food production is essential to a survival group. Having someone experienced will home canning, dehydrating foods, meat jerkies, animal butchering, sausage making, and more are a must-have skill for a group. Self-defense and Security – One team member should take the lead on self-defense. Ideally this person has vast knowledge and skills with firearms, and is able to teach firearms safety and usage. Ideally this person has a FFL or firearms dealers license, so that guns and ammunition are purchased as wholesale prices. Also having the ability to teach martial arts skills is very desirable. This person will need to manage and oversee the security watches and defense preparations of the homestead. This person will also likely take the lead with hunting efforts. Communication – This person ideally should have a ham radio license and ham radio equipment. This person will also likely oversee the supply of batteries, hand communication devises, electronic security devices, battery rechargers, and solar power. Logistics – This is the role that keeps everything organized. This person must be highly organized and disciplined. The stores of long-term food, medical supplies, vitamins, tools, barter items, ammunition, gold & silver coins, fuel storage, and more will be tracked in detail by this person. Child Care and Home Schooling – This role will take the lead on day-to-day care of young children. And perhaps this person will also manage home schooling of school-age children. Income Production – Hopefully some of your survival group members will retain their employment or be able to run a home-based business. Recognized that income production is a priority in any group situation. Before TEOTWAWKI, all members of the group will be responsible for their own income production. After TEOTWAWKI, likely that income will be pooled to support the entire group. Religious Practices – Your group might want to consider having a role as religious leader, if religion is an important element of your group. Energy Production – At minimum, your survival group will need to obtain, split and store firewood. Perhaps a group member has skills in solar energy. This person will need to have skills in electricity, deep cell batteries, and wiring. Having skills to maintain electrical equipment and motors will put your survival group ahead of the game. Perhaps your group is able to produce bio-diesel, which would be a valuable resource to run vehicles and generators. Other survival groups have the ability to produce hydro-power or wind-generated electricity. Having access to surface coal or a producing propane well is a dream for many survival group. Construction Skills – Carpentry, plumbing, and electrician skills have multiple benefits. First, you can maintain and grow your homestead. Second, the skills can offered for income or barter. Every group should have some type of handyman to make small repairs and run small projects at the homestead. Shared Roles and Responsibilities The following are roles, duties and responsibilities that should be shared across the whole survival group. Meal Preparation – This duty should be shared, although a few members might cook more often due to having skills and interest Cleaning and Sanitation – Everyone should have responsibilities for keeping themselves and the homestead clean and disease free. Water Purification – This is an important daily responsibility that should be rotated Another person should oversee the quality of water, since water is the most important component of any survival situation. Maintaining Security – Every able-bodied adult should take a security watch. Every able-bodied adult should be prepared to defend their homestead with firearms. Even little grandma should be able to point a 22LR rifle or pistol. Security is shift work. So having a mix of night owls and morning persons would be helpful. There should be check and balances to watch for someone falling asleep or being caught by surprise by an attacker. Lifting One Another’s Spirits – In a SHTF, WROL, or TEOTWAWKI situation, if will be too easy to become depressed and despondent. Everyone will have a down, bad day. The group must watch out for each other, and raise up the spirits of those having a bad day. Keeping everyone well rested, well feed, and surrounded with loving people goes a long way to keep people in good mind-set. Tending to the garden or farm – Everyone will need to participate in planting, weeding, and harvesting. Daily Chores – Every homestead will have a unique set of daily chores that need to be attended to. You might have chickens or rabbits to feed and harvest. You might have cows or goats to milk. Horses require lots of work. When you have a skills gap in your group, then use targeted learning to gain those skills. Allocate time and funds for a group member to obtain training in a missing skill set. Once you have your survival group brought together into a cohesive organization, start cross training the skills. Never have a single point of failure. If the person with vital skill becomes ill or dies, the other group members should have enough knowledge to continue. An effective survival group is composed of varying skills. Regardless of skills inventory, every member of the group will need to carry a high workload. Hard work and a team-oriented attitude are the keys to success. Lazy people need not apply to a survival group.

Huskevarna Chain Saw Use and Mainenance for Beginners

Chainsaw Use and Maintenance for Beginners

From SurvivalSherpa

http://survivalsherpa.wordpress.com/2012/12/09/chainsaw-use-and-maintenance-for-beginners/

Posted on May 20, 2012 by Joel

Here’s TUAK’s very first (and possibly last) how-to essay. If you already know how to use and maintain a chainsaw, or if you just don’t have one, proceed no further because this is rather long.
If you do own one and are feeling a bit uncertain on some related matters, click away.
BTW, if you do take the time to read this for information and find it inadequate, please leave a comment as to how it could have been improved. When writing a piece like this it’s very easy to make assumptions about what readers do and don’t already know. Y’know?

This is my Chainsaw. There are many like it, but this one is mine.

The thing to remember about a chainsaw, in terms of its maintenance, is that any time you’re using it you’re beating the hell out of it. A good saw will give you years of good, trouble-free service just like any tool. But that’s only if you treat it right. You just can’t ignore maintenance and expect it to keep running, because a little abuse and neglect goes a long way.
Consider the engine, for example.

That tiny little single-cylinder, two-stroke sucker can only do its thing under full-throttle, at which it’s cranking something like 13,000 RPM. The frictional loads it has to deal with are enormous (more on them later.) It has no liquid coolant, no bath of crankcase oil, and it will drag six feet of sharpened chain links through hard, seasoned wood all day long. Or not, depending on whether you do your part.
So let’s go through the parts of the chainsaw, and what care it needs to keep running right.

This is the drive sprocket, which is where the chain meets the saw. Depending on the brand of the saw the sprocket can take different forms, but they all do the same thing. The sprocket links with the drive tabs on the chain and sends it whipping around the bar at lethally high speed.

This is the bar. The chain’s drive tabs run in grooves on the top and bottom of the bar, and run through a sprocket on the front end. All the force exerted on the chain causes wear on the bottom side of the bar, which is why most chainsaw bars are reversible – you can mount it with either side down. By the end of a long winter, you’ll be happy for that.
Some bars use a “hard nose” design, which eliminates the bar sprocket. They’re more expensive, but get rid of a moving part that’s a common failure point. If you keep the sprocket clean and greased, though, it’s rarely a problem.

This is the chain tension adjuster. Again, it looks different on different saws but they all do the same thing. More on chain tension later.

This is the air filter. On your car, you’re probably used to not giving your air filter much thought but that won’t work well on a chainsaw. The saw works in an incredibly dirty environment, and the filter is a simple screen. It gets dirty very fast, and needs cleaning often. The simplest and best way to clean the filter is to spray it out with air pressure.

That complicated-looking black thing in front of the upper handle is the actuator for the chain brake. If the chain hangs up in a piece of work, the saw will kick back toward you and that’s never a good thing.

REMEMBER: IF YOU LOSE CONTROL OF EITHER HANDLE WHILE THE CHAIN IS MOVING, MR. CHAINSAW IS NO LONGER YOUR FRIEND.

The idea is that your hand will slip off the upper handle and bump the brake actuator. If that black actuator gets bumped it will click forward and lock a brake band around a drum, preventing the drive sprocket from rotating. It’s kind of a complicated mechanism, but when it’s working right that will make the chain stop moving right away.
That’s fine, but there are issues. If you ever try to rotate the chain on the bar and it won’t move, check the chain brake actuator first. Just try to move it toward the rear of the saw. If it moves backward with a solid click, you just fixed the problem.
Also, and this is very important: On Husqvarna saws, the brake band is mounted right on the inside of the sprocket cover. If the brake is actuated, it will be impossible to remove the cover without using force. I can’t tell you how many saws I’ve repaired where people went ahead and applied that force. DON’T DO THAT. On a Husky saw, if you can’t get the cover off the very first thing you should check is whether the chain brake is applied. If it is, turn it off and the cover will come right off.
I don’t know if any other brands use this design. The only one I’ve seen is Husqvarna. But if you’re having trouble getting the cover to want to come off, don’t force it. Check the chain brake.

This is the bar oil reservoir. Friction between the chain and the bar produces a lot of heat, and you will tear up both if you don’t keep them lubricated. All modern chainsaws have automatic oilers so you don’t have to give bar lubrication much thought as long as the oiler is working, but you do want to keep sure that it is working. If you’re ever not sure, just aim the end of the bar at an uncluttered patch of ground while the saw is running and hit the throttle. At full speed, the chain should lay a line of oil on the ground. If it doesn’t, stop cutting till you find out the problem.

As you can imagine, all that centrifugal force wants to send oil flying everywhere. That’s why bar oil is specially formulated to be extra sticky compared to motor oil. It’s more expensive, but this isn’t a place to save pennies because bars and chains are even more expensive. Much more. Make sure you keep oil in the reservoir.

This is where the mixed fuel goes.

Remember that the chainsaw’s engine has no crankcase. It’s lubricated through the fuel. You must not ever run straight gasoline in a chainsaw. So you’ll need a dedicated fuel container and a supply of mix oil. Mix your fuel according to the instructions on the oil bottle. When in doubt, too much oil is better than too little. Too much will cause your engine to run a little smoky and possibly, eventually, clog the spark arrester on the muffler. Too little will cause your engine to seize, and convert your expensive saw into an unusually dirty paper weight.

And of course this is the chain. The chain must be sized correctly for the saw and bar, and the cutting links must be kept sharp. If you find the saw reluctant to cut, or if the chain starts trying to burn its way through wood, the chain is dull and must be sharpened.
We could do a whole article on just this one part: Different sizes and types of chains, how to size them, how to sharpen them. We don’t have space for any of that. When in doubt, consult your dealer. But I will say one thing here about dull chains. When you cut with a dull chain, you’re doing more than burning wood and tearing up cutting links. In order to cut with a dull chain, you need to bear down on the saw, right? When you do that, you’re taking months of life not just off the chain, but also off the bar, the drive sprocket, and the engine. Think of that burning smell you detect as being the smell of burning money, and then stop cutting until you can sharpen the chain. Most serious chainsaw users keep several chains around. They’re easy to swap out.
Okay, let’s get to work!

To mount the chain, orient the chain so the cutting blades on the top of the chain face toward the front of the saw. NOTE: It is possible to mount the chain backward. This doesn’t really hurt anything, but the saw won’t cut. To repeat: the cutting blades on the top of the chain should face the front of the saw.
Now wrap it around the drive sprocket, making sure the drive tabs mate with the slots in the sprocket.

Now put the bar in place on the bar studs. Push it all the way to the rear at first, and don’t worry about connecting it with the tensioner. Drape the chain on the bar so it engages with the upper slot and the bar sprocket. The bottom part of the chain should hang down loose.

Now gently pull the bar forward, and engage it with the stud of the tension adjuster. On some saws, the adjuster is on the sprocket cover so you’ll need to install the cover for this step. If you run out of chain before you can get the stud through the hole in the bar, back off the adjuster by turning it counterclockwise. At this point, the chain should still be quite loose.

If you haven’t already, go ahead and mount the sprocket cover now. Don’t tighten the nuts, because we still need to adjust the chain tension.

Pull up gently on the chain. If the drive tabs come out of the bar groove, the chain is too loose. So rotate the chain tension adjuster clockwise, which will move the bar outward and tighten the chain. Do this gently: You don’t want the chain too tight.

When gently pulling on the chain causes the drive tabs to come up off the bar but not all the way out of the groove, you’re about right. Now rotate the chain on the bar. It should move freely.
If it doesn’t, check the chain brake. If the chain brake is not actuated, you’ve done something wrong. Back up and find the problem. Don’t try to use the saw unless the chain is rotating freely on the bar.
Starting the Saw

All set? Okay! Having checked your fuel, bar oil and chain tension, it’s time to fire this bad boy up. Starting a cold chainsaw engine comes in two stages. Do it right, and we’ll have you going in no time. Screw it up, and you’ll flood the engine. You don’t want to do that.
Step 1:
Make sure the chain brake is OFF.
Push the power switch to the ON position. Pull out the choke lever. Leave the throttle alone. Hold the saw down with one hand, and pull the starter cord sharply with the other. After two or three pulls, the engine should start and immediately die. That’s fine, that’s just what it’s supposed to do. You just properly primed the fuel system.
NOTE: Some chainsaws have primer bulbs to help this process along. I dislike this feature a great deal because they don’t really help things, they make it easy to flood the engine without ever pulling the starter cord, and they’re a common failure point. But if you’ve got one, you’ve got one. Read and follow the directions carefully.
Step 2:
Open the choke. On some models you can do this by flicking the throttle trigger. On others, you need to push the choke lever in. Hold the saw down with one hand, and pull the starter cord sharply with the other. After two or three pulls, the engine should start and keep running.
Individual chainsaws develop personalities. Some saws like a little throttle to get started at this stage, but it should still idle with your finger off the trigger. If you must give the engine some throttle, be mindful of where the bar and chain are. If you goose the throttle, the chain will spin. That can ruin your whole day if you’re not ready for it.
That’s almost it! You’ve got a running chainsaw in your hands, so you really shouldn’t be reading this right this minute. Just a few more words:
First: If you have trouble starting the saw, you’re running the risk of flooding the engine. If you can’t start the engine and you start smelling gasoline, stop immediately. You flooded it. Remove the top cover, remove the spark plug, and note that the electrodes are all covered with liquid fuel. The engine will never start once that happens. Dry the plug electrodes carefully. Then before re-installing the plug, pull the starter several times to run air through the cylinder and try to get any liquid fuel out of there. Re-install the plug and cover and go back to Step 1.
While you’re using the saw, periodically stop the saw to check and adjust the chain tension. Chains stretch. A chain that’s too loose will come right off the bar. It will damage the chain and may damage you.
I have actually met someone who tried to adjust the chain tension while the engine was running. Only the one guy, though, because almost everybody is smarter than that.
A Word About Spark Arresters

At the outlet of the muffler, you will find a little removable screen. That’s the spark arrester, and it does just what the name implies.
Sometimes at the shop we got customers who complained that they could start their saw easily enough but it wouldn’t develop any RPMs or power. Most often, the fix for this was very simple. Remove the small screw(s) holding the arrester screen in place, and pull it out with small pliers. If the screen is clear, that’s not your problem. But often you’ll find that the screen is clogged. This is caused by too much oil in the fuel mix. It doesn’t do any serious harm, but the engine won’t run right until you clean the screen.
That goop is burned on. The best way I’ve found to clean it is to heat it red-hot with a propane torch, then scrape it clean with a wire brush or screwdriver.
A Word About Cleanliness
A chainsaw works in a terribly dirty environment, and it will get terribly dirty. Some parts need to kept reasonably clean or they won’t work right. Most of this is common sense. The air filter, for example: You should clean it after every session. The engine draws a great deal of air through a tiny carburetor inlet, and you’ll be surprised how fast the filter can clog. NEVER EVER RUN THE ENGINE WITHOUT A GOOD FILTER.
On my older Husky 55 the chain tension adjustment point is between the saw and the bar, a dumb design they changed on the newer models. Dirt just packs in there, and I have to scrape it out several times a session. You get used to it.
Obviously, you need to clean all around the bar, chain and drive sprocket inside the sprocket cover. Dirt and sawdust mixes with bar oil at this point and it doesn’t just drift in, it’s apparently packed in under great pressure. Keeping this area completely clean requires a level of OCD your humble writer does not possess. But at a minimum you do need to keep it from packing up so deep that it starts impeding moving parts, okay?
At the point where the bar is pinched against the saw, there’s a little slot where the bar oil comes out to lube the bar and chain. Check this any time you have the bar off, to make sure it isn’t getting clogged with dirt. That’s a common way for the automatic bar oiler to fail.
Make sure dirt and sawdust doesn’t start packing between the heat sink fins on the engine’s cylinder head. It’s an air-cooled engine, which means air has to be able to get in there. Packed crud in there can ruin the engine forever.

Don’t forget the starter mechanism, on the opposite side of the saw from the sprocket cover. From time to time, remove the starter and make sure dirt, sawdust and twigs aren’t getting involved with the starter cord. Most designs have a couple of centrifugally-actuated levers that can become too dirty to do their trick: Make sure they remain free on their springs. Also, from time to time pull out the cord all the way and make sure it isn’t fraying. A frayed cord should be replaced as soon as possible because they do break. When it breaks, there’s no more saw for you.
Storage
Do I really need to tell you that you shouldn’t leave your chainsaw outdoors? Yet people do, and suffer the consequences, and the main reason is that automatic oiler. The big problem with chainsaw storage is that they tend to leak oil at all times, and bar oil is insidious stuff. Like I said earlier, it’s stickier than regular oil and harder to clean out of other materials.
Get your chainsaw its own container. You will thank yourself for this. Regular chainsaw cases, though expensive, are a very good investment in chainsaw longevity. Personally, I use a big Rubbermaid tub in which I store the saw and all its tools, spares and materials like bar oil, mix oil, and fuel. That way, in addition to keeping it out of the weather and ensuring it doesn’t make a mess, I always know where all the other bits are.
Fuel
Leave it in the sun, or just leave it laying around for a few months, and gasoline goes bad. Not being a chemist, I can’t tell you why this is and don’t care. All I know is two things: Bad gas smells really foul, and it’s death to chainsaws.
Chainsaws use diaphragm-type carburetors, which are extremely sensitive to bad gas. Bad gas attacks the diaphragms, turning them stiff and brittle and incapable of doing their thing. It can also do other bad things to your saw, but that’s the most common and it’s a show-stopper. A good shop can get you running again, but it’s really best to prevent the problem.
Two rules, which you break at your peril:
1.Always check your fuel by smell before pouring it into your saw.
2.Never store a saw long-term with fuel in it.
When you’re getting ready to store your saw, empty the fuel tank. Then start the engine and run it until it dies for lack of fuel. It won’t hurt anything, but leaving the fuel in there might.

For gasoline that’s going to be around for a while, go to an auto parts store and get yourself a bottle of fuel stabilizer. Then use it faithfully. You will look so much smarter if you do this.
Speaking of Spares…
Here’s a list of things I always keep on hand, to make sure I can cut wood any time I want to:
Chains: I like to have at least five on hand, but I heat with shaggy-bark Juniper which is as chainsaw-unfriendly a wood as exists anywhere. You should have at least two or three chains.
Spark plug
Air filter: Not essential, but removes the temptation of continuing work with a damaged or over-clogged filter.
Starter cord: Believe me. Sooner or later you’ll want this.
Mix oil, obviously
Bar oil. If you find yourself completely without bar oil, clean motor oil is better than nothing but it doesn’t work as well. You shouldn’t use substitutes here. Also, I’ve met some people who think this is a good place to recycle dirty used motor oil. They’re wrong.
As for tools, the only tool not associated with chain sharpening you really need is a flat-blade screw driver and two sockets, one for the bar nuts and one for the spark plug. The screwdriver will do double duty for scraping out the worst of the built-up crud. If you buy your saw new it will probably come with a gadget called a “Scrench,” which has all three tools built into one.
That’s all I can think of right now. If you read this and found a question unanswered, please leave your question in the comments because I’m trying to make this as complete as possible without making it 10,000 words long.
Thanks for reading! Let’s be careful out there.

Heating with Wood

Comparing Fuel Costs

In the winter of 2007/2008 the costs of home heating rose dramatically in the U.S., particularly for those homeowners who used fuel oil or propane for heating.  According to the Energy Information Administration (part of the U.S. Dept. of Energy) the average cost of residential home heating oil in the U.S. in February of 2008 was $3.40 per gallon.  This represents a 94% increase in price from just one year before. Homeowners who used propane did not fare a lot better.  The cost of propane was $2.55 per gallon which represents a 52% increase in the cost of propane in one year.
Given these dramatic rises in the cost of home heating many homeowners are considering switching to wood as a way of heating their homes.  The key question is does this make economic sense?  In order to answer that question there are a number of factors to consider:

1. How efficient is your stove or fireplace?  Probably the most critical factor is the efficiency of your wood stove or wood furnace.  If you just have a standard open fireplace it is almost certainly not efficient enough to use economically for home heating.  On the other hand most modern wood stoves are between 60% - 80% efficient.  One option you might want to consider if you have a standard fireplace is a fireplace insert.  Inserts are relatively easy to add to an existing fireplace and are nearly as efficient as wood stoves.
2. Do you have the ability to harvest wood locally?  In rural parts of the country there are often free sources of wood either on your own property or in publicly accessible national forests.  If your wood is free then the economics are always better.  However, be honest with yourself.  Consider the time it is going to take you to harvest the wood, cut it and stack it.  In some cases you will be better off buying it given the labor costs even when it is free.
3. What is the cost of a cord of wood or other bio fuels in your area? such as sawdust pellets or corn kernels?  The average cost of firewood in the U.S. in 2008 is about $190 a cord.  However, prices varied considerably by region.  There is also a lot of misleading terminology when it comes to buying firewood.  Make sure the vendor is using a standard cord which is 4x4x8 feet and includes a significant amount of hard wood, not just lightweight pulp wood.  If you are using a pellet stove then you need to see what the price of the pellet fuel is for your area, though this tends not to vary as much as the price of firewood.
4. How much space do you have to heat and how much of it would be heated by a wood stove? Generally, the larger your home the better the economics of heating with wood start to be.  However, in many homes the floor plan is such that there a single stove cannot heat all of the rooms.  In these situations you need to look at using a woodstove with a fan to get better heat distribution or possibly consider a wood furnace which can be hooked up to your forced air heating system. 

Comparing Wood with Other Fuel Sources
In order to compare the cost efficiencies of different kinds of heating approaches you need to translate the fuel metrics into a common measurement of heat.  The best metric to use is the BTU (British Thermal Unit).  Then what you need to understand is the equivalents between the different fuels in terms of the number of BTU's in a cord of fire wood  We have already done this analysis for you in the table below:

Type of Fuel	Compare Energy in BTU's for 1 Cord of Wood
#2 Fuel Oil (in gallons)	Divide by 175
Coal (in pounds)	Divide by 1600
Natural Gas (thousands of cubic ft.)	Divide by 28
Propane Gas (in gallons)	Divide by 220
Electricity (in kilowatts)	Divide by 6,500

Lets work through an example.  Assume that you used 1000 gallons of fuel oil this winter. To determine how many cords of wood you would need to get the same amount of heat simply divide the 1000 gallons by 175 as per the chart and you will see that it would take the equivalent of 5.7 cords of wood to provide the same heat energy.  Now you can make an initial comparison.  At $3.40 per gallon a 1000 gallons of fuel oil would cost you $3,400.  On the other hand at $190 per cord the 5.7 cords of wood would cost you $950.  That's a pretty dramatic difference!  Unfortunately it is not quite that easy.
In order to get an accurate comparison you have to account for the fact that wood stoves vary greatly in their efficiency as compared to an oil furnace. In order to make your comparison more accurate first divide the estimate of the number of cords (5.7 cords in this example) by the efficiency rating of your wood stove.  In this example, if the wood stove is 70% efficient then 5.7 divided by 0.70 = 8.14 cords.  In other words it is actually going to take 8.14 cords of wood to provide the heat you need given that the wood stove is not completely efficient.  Now you can re-run your estimate.  8.14 cords of wood at $190 per cord equals a total wood cost of $1,546 as compared to $3,400 for fuel oil.  This means that at current prices heating with wood is less than half the cost of heating with fuel oil! Quite a difference!
You can use this approach with any of the fuels listed in the above table and quickly calculate how cost efficient wood would be as a heating source compared to what you are using now.  To be completely accurate you should include the cost of a new wood stove if you don't have one. However, that cost should be very low when annualized given that most good wood stoves can last a lifetime.  Also, keep in mind that the above example was calculated on prices as of February 2008.  It is highly likely that fuel oil costs will probably continue to rise significantly in the future.  It is also probable that wood prices will go up with demand, though it is unlikely that they will go up as dramatically as oil and natural gas since wood is a renewable resource. 
 

Backwoods Resources

Well Germantown is not exactly backwoods, but this is great resources here, the dehydrating and pressure canning sections are great.

http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/aldridge138.html

Prepper Links

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1. BBC News – Second coronavirus death reported
2. Ending the Culture of Impunity
3. Book Review: Daemon, by Daniel Suarez SB
4. Just in case (radiation prep) IM
5. Think Sandy Was Devastating? Nuclear Attack a Real Risk, Experts Warn
6. Deadly antibacterial chemical triclosan found in human breast milk, blood plasma
7. Prepping for Catastrophic Threats: Beyond Beans and Bullets SB

November Prepper Links: Independent Income

1. 5 Advantages of Small Sales for Small Businesses SB
2. Turn Your Hobby Into Sustainable Living
3. 20 Lessons Learned after One Month of Blogging SB
4. 30 Ways to promote your blog posts IM
5. Dealing with a Lack of Feedback: Sort Your Goals SB
6. Eight Secrets Which Writers Won’t Tell You